Route -
to Zermatt

Tignes Off Piste Jan 2004
Gogarth Climbing June 04
Bernese Oberland Tour

Hut to Hut Grimsel to Fafleralp
August 2002

 Day Two : Oberaarjochhutte to Finsteraarhornhutte

There was no need to get up too early. As long as we were in time for breakfast, that would do.

Bill clombing the OberaarhornWe left some of our gear at the hut and at 7.45am we started from beside the hut loos on a rocky scramble. A hundred metres higher we got to the snow and it was time to put on crampons for the rest of the climb. It's straightforward to the top, moderately steep and it was slow The Lauteraarhorn 4042m to the NW
going, well, for me anyway, as Nigel was going well and Bill always goes like a ferret up a drainpipe!
The summit (3637m) has the usual cross, but actually getting to the highest point had to be taken very carefully as it was corniced - and no, I wasn't going any closer to the edge. The Dave on the summitdrop behind went straight down 1000m toward the Finsteraargletscher. The views locally to the Lauteraarhorn,Nigel's photo: climbing down the Oberaarhorn Finsteraarhorn and south to the Matterhorn were superb. It was 9.25am and we lingered until 10am.
Back at the hut by 10.50am, we had a rest, a litre of tea, packed our sacks and climbed down the ladder to the col. Roped up at 11.30am, we set of across the Studergletscher and climbed up to the Gemschlicke 3335m. The start of the descent was icy and covered in rubble which wasn't too stable, but a bit further down we could run the scree, until we got back to the snow lower down.
Just before we got to the Fieschergletscher, Nigel had to get his kit off and had a wash in a large stream - the works, electric shaver, deoderant - what else was he carrying! A gentle walk up the glacier and red paint and chains marked the steep climb up rocks on the right, leading us to the Finstreaarhornhutte at 5.15pm.


David Mercer2002